Thursday, 4 September 2014

Friday 22nd August Oodnadatta to William Creek

Friday 22nd August 2014


The camp kitchen at the Pink Roadhouse caravan park
 - a converted stable block
The washhouse
Swing set in need of repair in the campground
Others had added to this wall in the camp kitchen so
we made our mark as proud Hash House Harriers from Canberra

Outside the Pink Roadhouse


The campers awoke at the crack of dawn to set about busily packing up their tents. Not that they were noisy but 20 odd people packing up tents and tent pegs and chatting on the way to the loos isn’t quiet.

So I woke up way early and could not get back to sleep. As the light got brighter the campers got noisier and then they all had to eat breakfast and then clean their teeth then pack up the bus and stand around and talk and it was barely 7am. They finally pissed off about 7.30am and you could almost hear a sigh and a thank goodness from those left. 

I told Greg to roll over and lie with his deaf ear out so he went back to sleep. I got up, made lunch in the shuttle chef, had a shower in the don’t be modest showers.

The showers were clean and last time I was there I was on my own. However this time there were half a bus load of teeth cleaning bus tour women queuing, all wanting vanity basin space and here am I trying to shower. The showers don’t have cubicles really except for the actual shower itself which is very small. The rest is common space so to get undressed or dried without the wet cold shower curtain attaching itself to you (as they do) you have to be doing your drying thing in public. Its not a place for vanity and its not the nicest shower experience I ever have had. Dressed when I was half dried and got the hell out of there. Evaporation works. I got a good workout this time as the main squirt of water was out to the other side so I had to half squat to get wet and rinsed. Workout in a shower! Danoz Direct will market this next as the best thing for exercise. The clean workout – jut install a stuffed showerhead. You watch.

Anyway with sleeping beauty still catching up on ZZZ’s  I went back to the shop for another load of $1 coins for the washing machine. I may as well do the rest of the washing. It was a great day. Blue sky, sunshine, light breeze. I figured at the rate Greg was sleeping and the fact he still had to download photos from memory cards on to the computer that we would not be out of there by 12 and the washing would be dry. Nearly. Good enough to throw in the van for a finish off.

Greg eventually got up and basically the park was deserted – except for one Jayco Swan poptop which was unhitched and on its own. Owners obviously doing something else.

After downloading lots of photos and backing them up we were on the road, washing finishing drying on the caravan bed about 12pm.

Nobody in Oodnadatta has a supply of 5cm split pins (stop sounding surprised) so Greg has a note to himself that he must buy some and keep a stash in future. And U bolts as we lost one on the road, (we did have a spare) and scissors as he lost them too and a spare chock for the van as we are now down to one. Greg drove off and left it behind never to be seen again. Also tap washers as the one on the front of the van spontaneously started to drip about the same time we entered the desert. The things you learn.
 
Where to from here?
So off down the road and from here its William Creek – and a few points of interest along the way. We are now following beside the tracks of the old Gahn railway. How wonderful. There are old railway bridges, stations in ruins and all manner of things to stop and take photos of.

So with our lunch a cooking and our van a bumping along behind here we were ready to take it all in. That is until Greg read and got me to confirm that there is a Bronco Branding competition day at William Creek. Now that could be interesting.

He first ruin we came to along the Oodnadatta track on the way to William Creek was a place with a name barely readable on it but it was great. Mt Dutton I think it was called - you could hardly read the name. Firstly we could get to it without unhitching the van. Secondly it still had the iron water tank, a wreck of a station and a lonely grave on a hill. Plus sleepers where the railway line had been and lots of bits and pieces to suggest that this was once an important hive of activity. The remains of a combustion stove was still in a kitchen area and big fireplaces suggesting that this place can get very cold in spite of the fact we were boiling hot and the flies were so bad that we were scampering for the Aeroguard before we all got RSI from waving away the flies.
 
On the road again

Lonely grave in the middle of nowhere

Oh look its a hill
Flat, barren desert now but the scenery changed all the time


We took lots of photos. Then hopped back in the car with some opportunist hitch hiker flies and continued on our way.

The next ruin wasn’t as good as the first as dickheads had been there defacing the walls and carving their names in them. It was in such a bad state of disrepair that it’s a shame that there is no money in the state to try and save it. Lots of its walls were crumbling and the stone was scattered everywhere. Definitely not as good as the first.

Mount Dutton ruins
By now the afternoon was marching on so we stopped for lunch at a place with a lovely view of an old railway bridge. Scoffed lunch in the van, packed up and kept going. The next point of interest was another old trestle railway bridge over a waterhole. A camper trailer ahead of us tuned down this road but I wasn’t so sure so asked Greg to pullover in a safe pull over area while I took the 2 way and headed off,  camera around neck to see if he could drive our van up this track.
In spite of the bridge and the water hole being so lovely, there was no way we could have got Gibson up there and turned around. Lucky for me I just snapped a few photos and then stood on what looked like solid ground that turned out to be right up to my ankle in mud. Nice.


inside the very unstable ruin

the outlook from the ruin - you wonder how people lived out here

However photos taken, communication not to follow given, I jogged back down the road – not ideal when one has eaten lunch and got back in the car. On we go.

Greg particularly wanted to see the Peak Ruins – which are mentioned everywhere as a MUST SEE!

So off we went to find the ruins of this settlement. Its not just a railway station as there was a homestead and several out buildings her with a natural spring running through it also evidence of a disused copper mine.

It was a fair distance from where we were and the sun was beginning to get low by the time we got there. It was a very tricky entrance too. Over a cattle grid and a very narrow one at that. Gibson almost had to breathe in to get through and we had to go very slowly to get through. Then there was a washout that was very deep and a sign saying 21km to the ruins. I started to wonder if it would be worth going there at all. Then the next thing just as I said to Greg that we would be probably better off unhitching and leaving the van as we would make better time – the road disappeared between some trees and I said to greg that it was too narrow. It didn’t stop him from giving it a go and wedging our caravan mirrors in the trees.
 
Remnants of the Ghan railway line

The grave at the ruin
 you could not read who lies here as it was so weathered

Our caravan mirrors are like cat’s whiskers for Gibson – if they don’t fit then he won’t either. So reversing back up the path about 20 meters or so there was a conveniently placed camp ground big enough to turn around. We took my advice and unhitched. Locking the hitch on Gibson, putting down the stairs and putting his legs out so if anyone wanted to try and steal him, it would be too much bother.
Then it was off down the track for us. The sun had almost started to set. Greg offered me the drive – it was a GREAT 4WD track and I had the most fun going through tricky washouts and climbing up the other side, through sand pans. Great fun. Greg was even impressed by my driving. There was even a few little crossings where the spring water covered the road and it was a little deep.

Finally we got to the ruin which was well worth it indeed. There were lots of information panels and the ruins and the lifestyle of the previous owners and  were not in too bad a shape. We went nuts taking photos of everything as the sun was starting to set in earnest now. Greg drove back and had just as much fun as I did!

Peak Ruins
By the time we got back to the van it was almost dark. Not before we took some sunset photos on the way. We hitched, would up Gibson’s legs and it was my turn tot drive out through the tricky washout and the narrow gate. It was dark now and we were not obeying our own rules about driving at night – but we wanted to get a bit nearer William Creek as we bother were interested in going to the bronco branding competition. I was extremely lucky and had a good road which I managed 60km/hr for a further 30km and only ran over a rabbit – well he ran in front of the car but I didn’t hear a fluffy thud so I may have missed it and Gibson may have got him. Never mind there was not evidence of squashed bunny on the car or the van.

We also needed a place to pull off for the night and these parts don’t have rest stops. Greg kept a sharp

Once was a bedroom - Peak ruins main homestead
eye out for a pull in somewhere and al luck had it there was a lookout which had a nice big parking area and enough room to turn road trains around – we pulled up there, didn’t even bother with the van legs, leveled and cooked our chops on the Barbie for dinner. The lookout was Duff Creek. I hoped there would be a great view to take a photo of the sunrise tomorrow.









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