2016 Birdsville Trip Monday 29 August

Monday 29 August

Another grey and windy day. We got up and Greg immediately started trying to fix the rest of the lights. He gave up but got them connected without the plastic surrounds so we made do to protect it with a zip lock bag and miles of tape. Then we showered in their showers to save our water for Birdsville.

Said goodbye to our new found friends, made a quick phone call on a public phone and were out of there.

The scenery like yesterday would change from gibber rock plains with sparse vegetation to lightly wooded and every now and again would be a wetland. Often with a mob of cattle around it, plump and looking well fed.

It was after 1.30 well after lunch time when we pulled up on the side of the road as there aren’t pull over areas either – to make lunch.

Greg has been on a diet of fruit in the morning and salad for lunch so I made him a salad – fiddly thing. He wanted Tuna in it which he put in and started eating in the car.

Tuna STINKS!

It stinks when you eat it at work and it stinks the car out when you eat it in the car. Greg is also the world’s slowest eater – so it stank the car out for ages! I had to open the window and contain myself for yelling at him ‘hurry up and eat that salad so I can get you to shut the container and put the stink away’. But I didn’t and just sucked air out of the open window.

Then came the interesting part. After the stinking salad had been consumed, container closed and thankfully away -  the road got a little interesting. 

There were low lying fields of water either side of the road – it didn’t take long before the road became boggy. Not wet boggy at this stage. It had been extremely wet and had been driven on creating deep tracks  and pushing the mud into little banks either side of the deep rut. There it had somewhat dried and other people had made tracks through that so there was a path – narrow enough for a 4wd and not quite wide enough for the caravan so one had to be fairly precise about where the wheels on the car and van were going. This was interesting and fun to begin with but after an hour, just wanted it end!

By the hour and a half mark, there were no places to pull over and change drivers plus by then I had a guy catch up to me also towing a van but a DICK who tail gated through the mud. Followed by 2 mates in 4wd vehicles. All up my Gibson and putting pressure on me to go faster. I was going as fast as I dared for the road. As well as following in the tracks, there were dips and holes which needed to be slowed down for. If I had needed to stop suddenly dopey on my tail would have run into me.

This continued for another hour. I was getting really tired as the concentration was intense – so Greg found on our playlist the ‘Convoy’ song to cheer us all up. It worked! Hilarious – middle of nowhere going breakneck speed over lumpy dirt with 3 cars behind me.

Eventually and just before the Queensland border the mud finished and the track was broad and smooth again. Dickheads 1 to 3 tore past me in a hurry showering us with stones, threatening to break the windscreen.

Hope they have the most crap holiday EVER.

Hooray made it off the track in one piece – bar the van electrics. Next thing is to find a camp along the Diamentina river.

The T intersection that leads off the track ends at the racecourse. So at east we know where that is now.

Right near there is the dumping station. This was very important also as our loo needed emptying.

There were a couple of guys with a pump truck at the station when I rolled up with my cassette on wheels with our toilet inside so I thought I would be hilarious and say to them – this is another word for a ‘wee walk’!

Don’t think I will make it as a stand up comedian just yet.

Dumped the loo and the guy asked if I had chosen the short straw – I explained that my husband dry retches when he does the loo emptying so I just do it. They were impressed.

Loo emptied – which was a concern as we could not free camp with it being full, we found the free camps along the river.

Now this was trickier than you may think as we want a spot for a Gibson, 3 camper trailers and another caravan. Harder than you think when the nice on the river campsites could only take a couple of vehicles. However, after a run for me to sus out locations, a 2 way radio conversation, we settled on a freshly graded site not far from the river but one we would all fit with room for kids to play kind of and if it rained it would not be hard to get out of.

Clever us.

We set up camp and relaxed with a coldie.

We have phone reception so could get in touch with people again.

Unexpected Visitor

We barbecued some snags for dinner and were sitting outside by our fire, when I noticed something in the corner of my left eye – approaching us was a snake. Leaving dinner on the table we were quick to hasten into the van – where Greg shone a light on the snake as it ventured closer, curious, lingered and then slithered off into the night. I was surprised at how close it got to the caravan and the fire. It was over 2.5 meters long and Greg identified it as a brown snake. I have never seen a snake at night. This may be where he comes to get dinner and we were camping in his path. It did give us a surprise and I wondered if it would be coming back – wasn’t long after that we retired into the van for the night. Funny that!

Hopefully the traffic with cars, campers and people everywhere building will scare the shakes out to quieter places.

2016 Birdsville Trip Sunday 28 August

Sunday 28 August

We had the BEST night last night. Well it didn’t start out the best, we rolled up to the caravan park and the lady was a little grumpy. We were stuffed from driving for such a long time for so many days too. We powered up and decided to do some washing. The bore water stunk so I needed to put eucalyptus in the rinse water. When the washing machine finished we went to the pub.

The publican, Phil was in a tis and the staff who are mainly backpackers were a little lack lustre but that was ok. I found the Tom Cruise memorial room and emersed myself in old photos of the Birdsville track until it was time to order dinner. Greg had started watching football on TV and chatting to a bloke at the bar. Boring.

We ordered and since we were one of the last people to order, watched the other patrons filter out and the bar become quiet customer wise. Then a truck turned up and all the staff went into action.

Eventually we caught up with Phil who owns the place and we had met 2 years ago. He explained the high excitement with the truck which had turned up after 9pm.

The truck was 10 hours late and carried all the supplies for the hotel motel for the next week or whatever. They were expecting much Birdsville traffic to stop at Marree over the next few days so were sweating on the delivery. Everyone was tired after a really busy day so just wanted to unload it as quick as possible. ‘All hands on deck’ style.

Also Phil’s wife’s mother had been unwell so she was tending to her which took another person away from the running of the pub. Phil looked so tired poor fellow. We shared our bottle of red with him and then he shared a bottle of red with his dinner and us. Letting the staff lock up and go to bed, we stayed on for a little longer before it was all time for us to retire.

Back to Today

By the time we were ready to go the caravan park was empty – it had been quite full. There was a strong wind blowing and it made it quite cool and difficult to know what to wear – which sounds vain – but in the car is hot, out of it with the wind was cold. We fiddled around with washing and water and air bags and it felt like we were never going to leave. Greg managed to drop everything in mud including the caravan keys and our water filter. I was busy washing these things also.

After fuelling and buying some fresh bred rolls baked at the general store, we were on to the track. Photo stop first of course. Greg had put some more air into the Cruiser air shockers to support the fact Gibson was now relying on her and not the stability bars so Greg wanted first drive to test out the steering. Fine by me – by the time I finished running around taking photos I was happy to sit for a while.

We started up the iconic Birdsville track. Hooray, made it after 2 years of waiting.

It was tame in comparison to Oodnadatta.

We wanted to see everything on the track but soon came to realize that unlike Oodnadatta which has pink signs everywhere, this place has nothing so you have to figure it out for yourself – even Hema maps doesn’t have he sights on it. We did find a ruin- a failed date farm, then further up the track the hot springs.

The hot spring is a pvc round tub, about 4 meteres diameter maybe with a pump pouring hot spring water one in and a drain the other. Four young blokes were already in it and having a few beers – as you do. I wasn’t going to join them but we did. Found swimmers and in the pool we all were.

The guys were also going to the races and were from around Echuca in Victoria so we had a lovely chat about football among other things for about half to ¾ an hour when I decided I was getting too hot and hopped out to get changed and make lunch  - followed shortly by everyone else. The buys took off while I was still in the van making salad rolls for lunch. What a pain in the bum making salad rolls are – all the bits you have to take out of the fridge and put back in again. Making your fridge hot. Next time its vegemite rolls and shut up!

Because the road was so good, we made better than expected time – and with nothing sign posted to see, didn’t stop much either. Just before Menangerannie station we came across some blokes on tractors doing road works – and their UHF radio was tuned to channel 40 – as was ours and we heard this conversation among them:

Did anyone see where the snake kit is?

Nah

Is it in the ute?

Dunno – hang on looking, can’t see it

Is it in the other ute?

Nah

Did it travel back to Adelaide in that ute?

Dunno

Think a snake ate it.

We both found this conversation amusing.

The road works didn’t hold us up which was good an it wasn’t long before we were at the Station where we needed to get fuel and decided to book in for the night in their camp grounds.

Then we discovered that the troublesome caravan electrical cord cable had got loose from the connection and had spent the last goodness knows how many kilometers dragging on the ground and was stuffed. Pins bent, plastic worn away, buggered. No Caravan lights.

Just what you need after a long day of driving – stuck in the outback with no van lights. Luckily Greg had packed a spare expecting the worst as this cord was trouble since the auto electrician wired it up when we bought the van.

But Greg isn’t an auto electrician and barely knows what to do.

As it got darker, Greg was out there taking the old stuffed parts off and exposing the wires, rewiring and trying to get the whole thing to match up so things would work. At dark when the flies had finished bothering people and the mozzies came out he gave up and decided to give it another crack in the morning.

He hadn’t had a rest all day and it was too late to get him to rest now as he would sleep all night – so I did the only thing I could do and dragged him off to the pub.

What a great night!

We met some blokes at the bar just by chance and got chatting. They were going to the races too. Then the work crew came in who we passed on the road and we said hello to them, relised who they were and enquired as to whether the snake kit ever turned up.

They were still looking for it.

Then the barman, we realized was the one that worked for Phil at Marree and him and his wife had only started 3 days ago as did Jo the lady who I met when I paid for the fuel earlier. Then we met Phil – another Phil who owns this bar and was not well as he had stuffed his back hauling boxes of Grog in anticipation of the traffic going to the races.

Had a ball

We bailed about 11pm but they kicked on until 12.30!

Outback pubs can be the best nights you will ever have. You may not see anyone again but it is like instant best friends

2016 Birdsville Trip Saturday 27 August

Saturday 27^th August 2016

Peterborough moved their free camp. How dare they! We could maybe have parked in the old free camp but they let the grass grow so it was a bit too long grassy – if that is a word.

We were hanging out last night to go to the raffles at the local pub. Bets on we would have won a meat tray as our freezer is chocka block. It was however absolutely freezing and the pub 2 km down the road and we would have had to walk. Husband had no energy. Could not say I was jumping out of my skin after a 4 hour driving stint so we stayed in. It was so cold outside that I decided sending Greg out to cook things was unkind so I did it all in the van. Splendidly I might add but the smoke alarm kept going off as there was so much steam. Mashed spuds, steamed veggies and marinated chicken fillet.

Greg had an early night and I started this part of the blog which documents our travel. No heating in the van when we aren’t plugged in so when I was about frozen, went to bed. My goodness it was a cold night indeed. Even my hot water bottle struggled.

The next morning was sunny – then cloudy – then sunny again. Still absolutely freezing with a gentle breeze so the sun’s warm rays were not felt! I needed to have some exercise so forget the shorts – found tracky dax got kitted up and hit the road. Had a great time. Lovely town Peterborough.

Hadn’t done my abs and back exercises so decided to this also . Whist I was doing sit ups on the other side of the van I noticed a woman who didn’t see me approach our van and knock on the door. Curious, I could only see dress boots, a long dress and a long coat. Looked like an old fashioned missionary.

When I had finished my workout, I asked husband who that was and what did she want – she was a religious supporter spreading the good news of the Lord.

She did the whole caravan park – well who was left as many of the grey nomads are early risers and had left. Leaving her little newsletter. God bless her saving the souls of the wandering caravanners.

Eventually we hit the road – bound for Marree and the marvelous Maree Pub!

Greg was a bit tired so I took the driving early. The drive out of Peterborough is so pretty. The recent rain had inspired the green grass to grow and the road was interesting enough to start with. Gibson was towing well, Lady Cruiser purred along, Greg went to sleep as he was a bit tired still and I listened with my earbuds in –  to the play list that I created out of spotify – the ‘Birdsville playlist!’ Many genres 113 songs on shuffle. It wasn’t long before I was miming the words to so many songs, not making a sound but having a great time as I drove along. Ever vigilant, ever alert, just entertained – for four hours and a half. We stopped in Hawker for a short break. I bought a coffee, made some lunch, refueled and got back on the road. Greg went back to sleep and I drove again.

Hours went by and the shadows started getting long. At Lyndhurst we were going to get some fuel but the service station there was looking a bit dodgy. There were 2 pumps  of ULP out of order- so only one worked and they looked like they had been out of order for a while, and only high flow diesel on offer. Usually suited to trucks and not that good for a 4WD – so we pushed on to Maree as we still had our sub tank and it wasn’t that far. We travelled out of Lyndhurst and ta da. Dirt Road

Dirt roads mean that it is time to take the air out of the tyres in the car and the van and also the stability bars off so the articulating hitch can work better on the uneven terrain. So out of the car with Greg and with the air gauge. He only took a bit out at this stage as the dirt road was very solid and groomed.

One of the places we visited on the last trip to Oodnadatta 2 years ago was Ferina. An old abandoned town that had been left to ruin but had been recently undergoing resteration from some enthusiastic people from Adelaide. We were keen to see if they had progressed. I did mention that it was getting late and that we really didn’t have much time but Greg wanted a quick look so that is what we did. Look. Quickly. Then got out of there.

After turning out of the Ferina township road the road turned back to bitumen so it was stop again, pump up the tyres. Greg only did the ones on the truck this time as the caravan ones weren’t let out as much as they could have been and the ones on the car are new and could ruin running at the wrong pressures. Nevertheless we did take it easy going into Marree. I must say I was very pleased to get there.

2016 Birdsville Trip Friday 26th August

We headed out of Mildura- toward the border.

The border -  where they take all your lovely fresh produce away for destroying.

Happened last time I went there so I was determined not to let that happen again.

Driving into Mildura is temptation on a stick. Farmers with fresh mandarins, oranges, all sorts of produce in side stalls with honesty boxes and you can’t buy any of it because of the South Australian quarantine. You know they are just the best, sweetest, juiciest oranges and produce but can’t buy any of it unless you are going to gorge yourself so there isn’t any left by the border. It was tempting! Overdosing on oranges on a long car trip may not be the best practice so had to resist temptation.

However – I had chopped up and frozen everything I could not casserole and have for a vegetarian lunch – very unpopular with husband am I.

I had only ONE Onion to sacrifice.

And they didn’t want my onion.

Onions the least favorite of my veggies. No wanting my onion. Free to go. So I kept the onion and we moved on. This time the officer who came on board was lovely. Last time, 2 years ago, we had a woman who was very rude. I even thanked her for being so nice and she looked complimented and surprised.

Unfortunately, when we stopped, I received a text from one of my very best friends whom I have known from Kindergarten at primary school. Her mother had passed away. I have known Yvonne, my friend’s Mum  for 44 years. The most generous, kind, loving, caring and giving person I have ever known. She battled cancer and, although was on borrowed time, was not expected to suddenly pass away on her last holiday. She was determined to go to Queensland with her husband – her last holiday. She knew she had just a couple of months left.

Rotten luck – she became ill. They tried surgery and treatment but her body was so frail from the cancer that she was spent a couple of days in palatiave care and peacefully passed away with her family (who did the mad dash from Melbourne) around her.

Absolute devastation for the family and -  like shockwaves through the people that knew and loved her.

My dear Mum and her were best friends.

I just want to be with my friend -  but we are travelling to the middle of Australia. We can’t turn back now – although we could really – but what is the point? Yvonne would have been cross at our cancelling the holiday (gosh would she). My friend would be cross.

My Mum and Dad are going to the funeral as will my Sister. I have to let it go and catch up with her after all the things, the stuff  - and all  - with the death of a loved one. Life for her will resume without the support of her Mum. This will be just awful for such a long time. Yvonne will be so dearly missed it is worth tearing up at the very thought.

We went on to Renmark so we could stock up on fresh fruit and veg– we found the IGA. It was miles away from where we parked the van. Big vans and small country towns can have problems. You end up parking miles away  - there just aren’t enough big long carparks. After shopping we had to walk the trolley about 1.5 km back to the van. That was the end of husband. Energy spent and gone. I had the pleasure of taking the trolley back. Exercise box ticked for the day!

We found a nice café that did a splendid lunch. I was ready for action. My turn to drive.

Himself ready for a snooze, we hit the road – after dumping the toilet in the ‘dump zone’ which is hilarious as it was next to the swimming pool complex. (could not stop thinking about recycling) ha ha. The chick in the tourist info office who told me where it was helpful but didn’t get it. 

Off to Peterborough.

Peterborough free camp.